Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Clayton's Senior pics

 We decided to use locations in Denver's Tech Center for Clayton's senior portrait session.  We found quite a few different looks within a small area, and it was a lot of fun.  Sometimes taking the pictures is not the only creative pursuit - finding locations is, too!

Clayton is a Highlands Ranch soccer player, and we tried to incorporate soccer equipment and clothing into his photos.

We shot these in July.  I wish everyone
could be as organized as Clayton's
mom Barb!

Thursday, June 17, 2010

I just took these newborn shots this morning, and I've been working on the processing all afternoon.  I just had to post this photo, because I love it!  The dad's ring, his working hands, his daughter's little fingers holding his - it just makes me want to cry.  This is why I love photographing babies.

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Littleton Photography Class - Session 6

In our final class we practiced taking pictures of people.  Before going out to photograph, we checked our batteries, memory cards and camera settings.  We took  normal and telephoto lenses, and tripods.

 Lenses sometimes called portrait lenses are usually around 85 mm.  They have enough magnification so that the photographer doesn't have to stand too close to the subject.  Using a wide angle lens and standing close to the subject causes distortion.  You don't want to make your subject's nose bigger and out of proportion to the rest of their face.

Outside we looked for open shade, an area out of direct sunlight but with lots of diffuse light bouncing around.  We talked about bouncing light back into the shadow areas with reflectors.  Commercial reflectors are very handy, but when you don't have one, a white wall, a piece of posterboard, or even a white diaper changing pad can do.

An accessory flash connected to your camera's hot shoe can add more light when necessary.  We also looked for our camera's flash controls, including flash output compensation and fill flash settings.  A great resource for information on taking your flash off of the camera and using it as a portable studio strobe is the website strobist.com.

We talked a little about basic posing and trying to make your subject look as good as possible.  Having your subject face the camera with face and shoulders squarely toward the front has its place, but it's not flattering for most people.  Angling shoulders and heads is usually more pleasing.  If possible, have arms coming away from the body so that there is not one giant mass of arms and torso.

There is a difference between a portrait, where the photographer thinks about things like posing and lighting, and a candid shot, which is usually taken quickly and without much control of the conditions.  Candids are often a part of photojournalism, or of a photojournalistic style of portraiture.  When I was a high school yearbook advisor, I taught my students to capture the actions and reactions of what was happening, and not to take snapshots of people grinning at the camera.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Littleton Photography Class - Session 5

We went outside to take landscape photographs.  Before leaving, we checked our battery, memory card capacity, and any settings that might have been changed during our last photography session.

Since we were planning to take both landscape and close-up photos, we took both wide angle and telephoto or macro lenses.  A tripod would be helpful.  Also some basic filters.

 polarizing filter - reduces or eliminates glare by only allowing light that comes from a certain direction.  Polarizing filters make the sky look bluer by reducing the glare off of the many droplets of moisture in the sky.
neutral density filter - reduces the amount of light entering the lens, and is a neutral gray color.
split neutral density filter - has a gradation from a neutral gray to clear.  By turning the gray portion of the filter toward the top, you can slightly darken a too-light sky.  Put the gray portion of the filter towards the bottom, and you can tame a too-bright land mass or body of water.  Most often used for landscape photography.

We discussed the effect aperture will have on depth of field.  The larger the aperture (smaller number), the more shallow the depth of field.  Depth of field is also affected by the focal length of the lens and by the distance to the subject.

 A telephoto lens causes an apparent condensing of the visual space.  You can see far away because of the magnification, but it all looks kind of squashed together.  A wide angle lens ( with a smaller focal length) increases depth of field.

As you move farther away from the subject, depth of field increases.  As you move closer, depth of field decreases.  Taking close-ups of plants and shots of far away landscapes is a good time to see these principles in action.

We discussed composition concepts like putting the horizon along one of the rule of thirds lines.  Framing is another composition technique often used in landscape photography.  Framing is shooting through an element to create a kind of frame for the main subject.  Tree branches or architectural elements are often useful for framing.  It also gives a feeling of depth and dimension. We also tried to look for leading lines in the landscape.

Homework for this week is to shoot at least 30 shots of urban and rural landscapes, including some close-ups.

This image from Yorkshire, England is an example of framing with tree branches.  The photo at the beginning of this post is also from Yorkshire. It was taken in Valley Gardens in Harrogate.






A close-up of a blooming crabapple tree in Denver.  A combination of the aperture and a small distance from the camera to the subject created the shallow depth of field.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Session 4 Homework


This week as you look for subjects that showcase texture and color, look for:
1.  texture in nature
2.  man-made texture
3.  texture of skin, hair, fur or feathers
4.  saturated color  (bright, vivid, high chroma)
5.  subdued color (dull, more neutral, not as bright)
6.  monochromatic color scheme (one color, different values)
7.  cool colors (blues, greens, purples)
8.  warm colors (reds, oranges, yellows)

The world is full of color and texture, and aren't we glad!  Have fun as you notice these things in your daily life.
 




texture photograph by Janet Lemasters, 2010

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Histograms

This is an example of a histogram.  Getting into the habit of checking your histogram as you shoot will help you see when you need to do a shot over again.  It is usually good to have some pixels all the way to both ends, and to have a majority of pixels somewhere in the middle.  But this is art, so whatever effect you're going for may look different from what I've just described.

High key images (mostly light values) will have the highest spikes toward the white end of the graph.  Low key (mostly dark values) will have the biggest spikes toward the black end.

Littleton Photography Class - Session 4

My Camera:  We looked at what kind of lens our camera has.  We found the controls for the flash, and looked for flash output compensation.  We also found the white balance, and looked at the different white balance settings.  We looked at different metering patterns available, and discussed when to use them.

Terms:  
contrast - the difference between the darkest dark and the lightest light in your photograph.  The greater the contrast, the more drama your photos have.  Of course, the greatest contrast is going to be with a subject that is absolute black and brightest white.  We talk about contrasty lighting causing harsh shadows. Try modifying the contrast in your photos post-capture, and see what a difference it can make.
normal lens - a normal lens most closely approximates normal human vision.  For 35mm cameras and full frame DSLR's, a normal lens is 50-55mm.  The following definitions assume you are using one or the other.
telephoto - a telephoto lens has a focal length greater than 55mm.  It will magnify your subject and visually compress the space.
wide angle - a wide angle lens is less than 50mm.  The feeling of space or depth of field will be greater.  Its angle of view will show more of your subject out to the sides, but it will not be magnified as much as a normal or telephoto lens.  Wide angle lenses used close to the subject will cause distortion.
fast lens - a fast lens has a larger possible aperture, allowing faster shutter speeds to be used.
zoom lens - a lens with more than one focal length.
histogram - even little bitty point and shoot cameras have them now.  A histogram is a graph that shows you how many pixels there are of each of the possible 255 values.  It looks like a spiky mountain range.  The taller spikes show where you have more pixels.  The graph along the bottom tells you whether those pixels are lighter or darker.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Littleton Photography Class - Session 3

Camera:  We practiced setting the shutter speed in manual mode, or finding shutter speed priority mode.  We found the control for the self-timer.

Terms:  stop - an increment of light.  The difference between a shutter speed of 15 ( one 15th of a second) and 30 (one 30th of a second) is one stop.  The difference between two adjacent apertures would also be called a stop.  Cameras in the 1800s had a piece of metal called a Waterhouse stop that determined the size of the aperture, and therefore how much light came into the camera.  You chose which stop to put into the camera based on how much light you wanted to come in.

A shutter speed of 15 lets in twice as much light as a shutter speed of 30.  A shutter speed of 60 lets in half of the light as a shutter speed of 30.

equivalent exposure- different combinations of apertures and shutter speeds will let in the same amount of light, but there are aesthetic reasons for choosing one or the other.  For example, if I start with an aperture of 8 and a shutter speed of 125, but I want to use a larger aperture for a shallower depth of field, I can change my aperture to 4.  That 's two stops more light.  Therefore, I have to change my shutter speed two stops to 500 to keep my exposure (the amount of light) the same.  If I start with f/8 and 125 again, and want to blur motion, I can change my shutter speed to 30.  Since I have changed my shutter speed to allow two stops more light, I must change my aperture to f/16 to keep the exposure the same.

Remember that aperture determines how large the opening is that allows light to come in.  It also controls depth of field.  Shutter speed determines how long the light strikes your image sensor, but it also determines how motion is recorded.

white balance - one of the properties of light is color.  We experience this every day, but perhaps have not really thought about it.  Morning light is cooler than evening sunset light.  Tungsten lightbulbs give off a warm, yellowish light.  Florescent bulbs give off a cool, greenish-blue light indoors.  Digital cameras have settings to compensate for these different colors of light.

 flash - an artificial light source.  Most cameras come with a built-in flash.  Your built-in flash is often not the best solution.  It produces a harsh light close to the camera lens that makes your subject look flat and without texture.  Often the subject is too bright and the background is too dark.  Accessory flash units that connect to a hot shoe on the top of your camera give much greater flexibility in intensity and direction of light, and can even be used off-camera. A wonderful web site for reading about off-camera flash is strobist.com.

Seeing:   This week, look for motion and light as you take your practice photos. Try to take both frozen action and blurred motion.  Give panning a shot.  Take both high key and low key photos, as well as a high contrast one.  Try a window lit, back lit, and reflection picture.  Have fun!

Motion photo by Carol Luallin        Dice photograph by Amy Parker

Rule of Thirds

An important tool for making your compositions work is called the rule of thirds.  It is also called the 9 zone grid.  If you divide the picture space into three even parts horizontally, then divide it again into three even parts vertically, you will have a grid like the one on the photo at the left.  Place the center of interest, the part of the photo you want the eye to go to first, at one of the intersections of the grid lines.  This works every time to make your compositions more interesting.  A bullseye may be great for darts, but can make your photographs boring and static.

Some cameras have a feature that places a 9 zone grid into your viewfinder as you are composing the shot.  This is a good way to practice until the rule of thirds becomes automatic and natural to you.

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Littleton Photography Class - Session 2

Your camera:  set different apertures in manual or aperture priority mode
Take a series of photographs where the aperture changes and other variables stay the same.  Do you see the difference that changing the aperture makes?  Remember that the largest number (like f/22) is actually the smallest hole.

Set your camera for different ISO's.  The lower  numbers (like an ISO of 100) are for situations where there is lots of light.  The higher numbers are for lower light situations.  Newer and more expensive cameras do a great job even with very high ISO's.  See what your camera will do.

Terms:     focus - which part of your picture is sharp and clear.  If you're interested in understanding the technical details about how light is focused through a camera lens, Google "circles of confusion".
depth of field - the part of the image that is acceptably sharp. Depth of field is affected by 3 main variables, one of which is the aperture.  A large aperture (small number, like f/2.8) will create shallow depth of field.  Things in front of or behind the center of interest that you focused on will appear blurry and out of focus.  A small aperture (big number, like f/16) will have a greater depth of field.  Objects all the way back through your image may be acceptably sharp.

Blurriness caused by depth of field will affect only part of your image.  If your whole picture is blurry, you may have a problem caused by camera shake.  With slower shutter speeds and/or longer lenses, your breathing and heart beating can cause the camera to shake enough to blur your pictures.  Use a tripod.  Brace yourself against a stationary object.  If that is not possible, let all the air out of your lungs, then hold your breath, brace your arms against your side, and be sure to squeeze the shutter release button.  If you punch down on the top of your camera, you may be shaking the camera!

Seeing:  This week look for shapes - angular, geometric shapes and circles and ovals.  Try to notice the shapes of negative spaces, and objects and their shadows.  Look for framing as a compositional element. Take a silhouette.  Look for a repetition of shapes that forms an interesting pattern.  Try to use the rule of thirds.  Practice placing the horizon one third from the top, and one third from the bottom.

student photograph by Sean Palizza

Littleton Photography Class - Session 1

Welcome Photography students!  If you missed a class, or just want a review, you can find a shorter version of our class notes here.

On week 1 we looked at our cameras and instruction books to find our memory cards and battery compartments.  We found out how to format the memory card and recharge the  battery.  Everyone discovered whether or not their camera would allow manual settings or had an aperture priority or shutter priority mode.

Four important terms:
exposure - the amount of light in your picture
aperture - the size of the opening through which the light enters
shutter speed - the amount of time the light enters
ISO - in digital photography, a measure of the amplification of the information hitting your sensor
Aperture and shutter speed are the two most important factors determining your exposure.  ISO is next.

Seeing:  The most important factor in photography is not the equipment; it is the photographer.  Your eye, your heart, your mind are more important than anything else.  Yes, some people are gifted with a natural aptitude for seeing great photographs, but you can train your eye and your mind and become a better photographer.

Week 1 we looked for lines and perspective.  Lines are the easiest visual element to find, because they are everywhere!  Look for straight, curvy, and diagonal lines, lines that create direction, and lines that create structure.  Find some converging lines, linear patterns, and an example of aerial perspective as well as linear perspective.

If you don't have your instruction book, go to the manufacturer's web site and download one.

The photograph above is by Casey Etie.

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Newborn Session


This is the little girl whose birth photographs have been posted here previously.  I thought you might like to see a few shots from her newborn session.


Taking Childbirth Photos

I've had a lot of questions about what camera and settings to use when taking childbirth photographs.  I used a Nikon D700 to take these.  The quality of photographs taken at higher ISO's is much improved over my previous Nikon camera.  I was able to use ISO's of 1600, 2500, even 3200 with good image quality.  Usually the hospital staff will ask that flash not be used.  With a camera like the D700 you can use high enough ISO settings that flash is not necessary.   I used shutter speed priority set on 60 so that I could hand hold.  It also helped that I have a f/2.8 lens.

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Custom Birth Announcements

Karen Stork Photography is proud to offer custom birth announcements from your newborn session photos.  The announcements are in either 5 x 7 or 4 x 6 size, come with envelopes, and can be printed on front and back, or only on the front.  Share the joy of your new arrival with friends and family with unique birth announcements.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Anniversary Portraits


What a great idea!  We took these beautiful portraits at Red Rocks in Morrison, CO to celebrate this couple's 20th anniversary.  Now their children will have a lasting memory of their parents being loving and affectionate, and celebrating a commitment that has lasted for 20 years.  I am honored to have been a part of their special day.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Childbirth Photos







Taking these photographs is one of the mountaintop experiences of my life.  I am so grateful to have been there and to have shared in this event.
















Friday, March 5, 2010

Brand New Baby Girl



I had such a good time photographing this beautiful little girl.  She was so content sleeping on her parents' quilt.  You can't see them, but I think she's going to have beautiful blue eyes!  See more shots of this sweetie below.


Saturday, January 9, 2010

Something new


I've never tried blogging before, but I've enjoyed reading other people's blogs, so I'm joining the fray.  I hope to post something each week, whether it's pictures from my latest photo shoot or just musings on life.

The photo at left was taken in Hungary, and always reminds me of the many happy memories I have of my trips there.